Summary of Layup

Some folks have asked me for a summary of my core and glass layup. Here it is:

Each layer wraps the inside or outside chine

Side panels ⅜” CoreCell

Bottom panel ½” CoreCell

Decking ⅜” Hydrotek with under supports 

Inside bottom from core:  10 oz E-glass > 5 oz Kevlar > 25 oz 1708 biaxial w/ mat

Inside side panels from core: 10 oz E-glass > 5 oz Kevlar > 10 oz E-glass

Outside bottom from core: 25 oz 1708 biaxial w/mat > 5 oz Kevlar seam tape on chines >  8 oz. Innegra > 5 oz Kevlar > 8 oz Innegra > 8 oz S-Glass > 5 oz. Dynel > Graphite/epoxy/cabosil flow coat

Outside side panels from core: 25 oz 1708 biaxial w/mat > 8 oz Innegra > 9 oz S-glass

More Deck Painting

Time for the next coat of deck paint.   The white primer coat looks pretty, but will likely be way too bright on the water.  So on went a coat of Grand Banks Beige.

Of course, this was preceded by another round of sanding.

I cut out the foam seat and made the side rails while waiting for the paint to dry.  Will form the seat shape, and attach it to the deck later once I get oars, foot rest and bar all together.

Playing around with color options for the outside hull.  New lesson - don't go to Home Cheapo and pick up 20 different paint cards.  Too many options, plus color choices for marine paint are much more limited.

Edit:  I later learned that George Kirby can match pretty much any color.  Go nuts!

First coat of paint on the sidewall sheer edge.  Decided to match the interior color, but still thinking about some brighter accent color such as red or green.

Deck Painting and New Trailer

Painted the deck and hatches with a primer white coat. Pretty bright.  Looks like there's a little run and sag which will need sanding (of course) and just a few air bubbles.  Not much if any orange peel. Paint is still too soft today to do much with it.

So I headed up to Longmont and picked up my boat trailer from Boulder Boat Works.  Looks like an upgraded Baker trailer to me.

Kevo gets a "dory tour" last night.

Hatch Latching

I spent most of Tuesday morning (a wonderful day off) trying to figure out how to measure for the latch openings in the hatch lids.  The distance from the lid edge and the inside of each notch and aluminum plate measure just slightly different, depending on the width of the top of the frame collar and angle of the frame to the bulkhead.  These are "money cuts" as I get one chance to get it right, otherwise it's build a new lid.

This is the template I used, cutting out a hole for the Southco latch to use to measure each spot.  You can see the measurement for each latch cut, either plus or minus from flush with the edge of the lid.

Later I used this same template for final routing of each lid opening.

Let's call it my "hatch lid storyboard".

Deciding to give my router a break, since I only had a 1/4" pattern bit, I pre-drilled out much of the material with a Forstner bit on my drill press. 

Then finished each cut with the small laminate router. Next time (those words keep reappearing), I'll buy a 1/2" pattern bit and use my bigger Bosch router. 

Came out pretty well.  

Test run of two of the Southco latches.  Looking good! 

MBS Visitors and Dolly Tragedy

Erik and Christie visit the Marland Boat Shop for the weekend!  A wonderful opportunity to enlist them for yet more "final" sanding.  It seems I may be saying that for a while.

Trying out the seat foam for fitment and size while planning location of the hatch latches.

On the way back into the garage, after a perfect day suntanning in the driveway, the stern port rail of the dolly frame broke when the wheels hit a bump.  Nothing a couple of 1.5" NRS straps can't fix!  But I'm prob going to have to leave the boat in the garage until ready to transfer to the trailer as I can't chance another frame catastrophe, esp since Erik and other heavy lifters have now left.

Frame Collars

The frame collars, which go under the front edge of each set of hatch frames, opposite the hinge, were built.  These have dado cuts on each end where they fit under the side frames. I cut these with my table saw dado stack. 

Prior to this, my band saw was used to cut a bevel on each board which matched the angle of where the collars will meet the bulkhead to which they'll be glued.  These ranged from 20 degrees for the bow hatch, 12.5 degrees for the stern, 10 degrees for the front cross hatch, down to 0 for the two side hatches.

Two slots were cut on the bottom of each collar to allow for the swing arm of the Southco latches.  Aluminum angle was cut on the band saw and drilled and then epoxied and screwed into each slot. Prior to that I chiseled out each collar to recess the plate into it.

Then frame collars were coated in resin. 

And epoxied into place in each hatch.  Once again using up every clamp I own.

 

 The end result of the first go-round.